Dateline: San Francisco, CA; 7:56 PM
Per this tweet, I’ve successfully made Pop Tarts. Oops, pardon my grammar - I meant “can’t wait to see how this dough comes out.” I wanted to bake something new to me, and this perfectly satisfied my desire! They are inspired by the ones that (hopefully still) can be found at Flour Bakery in Boston (and coming to Cambridge!).

Mine didn’t turn out quite like that. I don’t have the type of pastry cutter they used to cut the edges. Mine did turn out flaky and delicious nonetheless. You can check out all the action on Flickr.
Home Made Pop Tarts
(recipe adapted from BigOven.com)
Egg Wash
- Pour flour into a large bowl and whisk to get rid of any lumps, then add the butter and shortening. Use a pastry blender or two knives to blend together until some of the mixture resembles breadcrumbs, but there are still recognizable chunks of butter, about 4 minutes of blending.
- Add sugar, baking powder, salt, egg, vodka, and cold water. Mix with large wooden spoon, adding the water gradually, until there are no longer any large pockets of flour in the dough. Wrap the dough in plastic, forming a 4” by 8” rectangle, and chill for at least 30 minutes.
- Heat the oven to 375 degrees before you are ready to begin baking. After allowing the dough to chill, divide it into four equal portions (use a scale!), keeping one portion out and putting the rest back in plastic in the refrigerator. Make the egg wash - beat egg and heavy cream together in a small bowl. Dust the top of the dough with flour, flour your rolling pin, and roll the dough out on a very well floured surface into a 12” x 16” rectangle. I used a silicone mat as a template to determine how large to make my Pop Tarts. Cut into 8 equal sized rectangles. Spoon jam into the center of half of the dough rectangles, leaving about 1/2” around the edge. Brush the edges around the jam with the egg wash. Flip the un-jammed dough onto it’s partner and press down along the edges. Use a fork to crimp edges down and seal the jam inside. Transfer to a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Poke a few holes in the top of the pastry, then lightly brush egg wash over the top of the dough. Place in the oven for 30 minutes, turning half way through. Let cool for 10 minutes.
- As one batch is baking, you can prepare the next through brushing the egg wash over the top, unless by that point the first batch is done baking. Otherwise, place the waiting pastries in the fridge, covered with plastic wrap, and repeat with the remaining larger pieces of dough.
The Pop Tarts really are better if you let them cool down for a while, rather than scarfing them down, still steaming, into your greedy mouth. Either way they are exactly what I wanted. The original recipe called for a confectioner’s sugar glaze, which I would have made if I had any. I’ll get some tomorrow to make it true to the ones that can be found at Flour. I filled my Pop Tarts with raspberry jam, what I think is a 3-berry jam my mom made, and apricot preserves mixed with a touch of lemon juice. They are all mouthwatering. I think filling them with something savory (goat cheese and herbs, Parmesan, bacon), or other sweets like chocolate and nuts, would also be outstanding. S’mores! The possibilities are endless.
July 4th. A day of patriotism, fireworks, and barbecues. I participated in none of it. San Francisco was relatively calm today. Blue Bottle coffee was obtained. Mary and I walked to the Mission so she could show me some new stores that had opened up in the month I’ve been away from the city. We over-dressed - the weather was beautiful and not cool at all. We contemplated buying shoes and dresses. We had brunch at Tartine Bakery. I waffled between wanting to order dinner from Lers Ros and making burgers. I opted for the latter. In the end, that was a much more satisfying decision.
As much as I abhor shopping at Safeway, the thought of walking the extra blocks to Foods Co. did not appeal to me. Purchases were made. Charcoal, watermelon, and meats were lugged home because the 22 was crowded and I had already waited 15 minutes. Walking groceries home is character-building. I was thankful I didn’t buy beer.
I had settled on 80/20 ground beef (from the deli counter, not prepackaged…. It was cheaper and had the illusion of being better). I read some recipes for burgers and wasn’t satisfied with any. I would do this on my own. 70% of the time, I make dinner from whatever is lying around. I buy ingredients piecemeal, there is a decent selection of random things to incorporate into what I cook. Today that included a couple of little jalapeno peppers and garlic. Perfect burger ingredients. Garlic has a tendency to get burnt and bitter if you just throw it on some flames, so I decided to roast it in the toaster over. 5 big cloves, wrapped in tin foil with some olive oil drizzled on top. 20 minutes later, soft perfection. The jalapenos were blackened over the gas stove, the charred skin scraped off, and diced. I tried leaving the ribs as intact as possible, since I was hoping to achieve some heat. The garlic and peppers were added to one pound of beef, along with a teaspoon each of salt, fresh ground black pepper, and cumin. I formed three patties and stuck them back in the fridge so the flavors could meld. Or something.
I went about getting everything else ready - prepping toppings, making sides, and setting up the grill. A word about the grill. Mary has a nice big Weber charcoal grill sitting on her porch. It has not been used for almost two years, since she had a big party and a bunch of us celebrated our birthdays. Flames rose high over the deck that night. Mary thought Mike would burn her house down. There were burgers. And beer. Lots of beer. And corn. I remember sitting on the stairs eating corn, chatting with friends. Grill = good times! Why haven’t I made use of it until now? Because I was scared. I’ve never been the grill master. That role has been held by my parents while I was growing up, and more recently by Mike Fabio, who rules all things meaty. The grill was simply out of my purview. But it was time to take charge and learn how to start a charcoal grill. I’m an adult. Adults should know how to properly play with fire. Thankfully there are the internets. And, ironically, I found this website, which told me all I needed to know. Armed with lighter fluid, charcoal briquettes, and matches from Zeitgeist, I made fire and heat. I was impressed and proud. I think I’ll grill more often. It takes a little time to invest in setting everything up, but it was well worth it. I smell like grilling now, and I love it.
While I was waiting for the charcoal to do its thing, I sliced tomatoes, sauteed 1/2 a large red onion, and baked bacon in the oven (a clever trick I learned from my mom - no stovetop splatter, less mess, even results - win). I made some roasted potatoes on the stove top following the guidelines laid out here, to much success. Just add salt and pepper, cover, stir occasionally. It doesn’t get much easier than that. Then the time came to put the burgers on the grill. I made the mistake of covering them initially, which didn’t let the charcoal get enough oxygen and produce enough heat. I rectified my mistake and quickly the charcoal glowed a happy, meat-searing red. I ran in and out of the house gathering all the finishing touches, ketchup, burger bun, beer. Baked beans were hastily dumped in a pot and heated through. Everything came together. Burgers were crispy but not burnt on the outside succulent (if not a tad overdone) on the inside. The cumin was the star of the burger, followed closely by the roasted garlic - it was mellow but added a nice subtle flavor. Caramelized onions were salty, sweet, and melted away. The bacon added a nice crunch and smoky flavor. The tomatoes, well, you have to have tomatoes. They actually tasted like tomatoes and not watery, bland, mealy slabs of sadness. No cheese, I wanted to go with relative simplicity.
When you cook for one, it’s tempting to cut corners and not really put effort into making a meal. I frequently have cereal or an apple and peanut butter for dinner. I’m lazy and cheap. But every now and then I realize that I’m worth cooking for. I’m worth the big production of a dinner, dirtying many dishes, juggling several tasks. There is something very satisfying about making good food for yourself, and knowing it’s good. Plus, I didn’t have to share with anyone else!
I enjoyed my solo 4th of July barbecue very much. The weather was perfect for sitting outside to eat. The dirty pigeons kept me company. When I was finished, I just sat and relaxed. I didn’t have to worry about anyone else. Time was my own. I felt very present in the moment, as stupid and new-agey as that may sound. I learned something new, something useful, and did something nice for myself. It’s become a habit to beat myself up for all of my shortcomings, and it felt incredibly refreshing to break through doubts and insecurities and end up with a very positive result. I know it’s just grilling, but when you are so used to trying and trying and failing and failing, a small accomplishment feels like the best thing in the world.
A photographic journey of my burger therapy can be found here.
Today I took advantage of Rainbow Grocery’s 20% off coupon - which can be found in the AT&T phone book in the Bay Area, if you are wondering. Rainbow is great. They have an amazing selection of cheeses, milk, and yogurt. Essentially their dairy can’t be beat. Also perfect for bulk flours, or, as I discovered today, hemp protein powder. But you can’t make a delicious burger out of protein powder (please don’t even try and prove to me that you can). On the last trip I made to Rainbow, I bought some seitan BBQ sloppy joe…. Glop. I don’t know what else to call it. It’s pretty much inedible to me. Even when I was a vegetarian, seitan was like George Hamilton’s tan - it wasn’t even pretending to be real. It is no substitute for honest to goodness animal flesh.
Down the street from Rainbow Grocery sits an unassuming supermarket. It looked mad sketchy for a while, but has recently undergone a renovation, and as I discovered once I went inside, is owned by Kroger, or at least gets a lot of it’s food merch from them. Foods Co is my kind of supermarket. Kinda like Costco, kinda like awesome. Wide aisles, cheap prices, decent selection. I am never, ever, ever going to Safeway again, unless it’s to pee at 2:30 AM after a night out drinking in the Mish.
One pound of ground beef (85% lean) was $3.18. Honestly, it’s been so long since I’ve purchased ground beef I don’t know if that’s a good price, but it worked for me. Cheaper than chicken, and only $.18 more than ground turkey. 6 large, tasty looking buns - $.98. $.98!!! I also bought a Coke Zero, which brought my total for dinner (with lots of leftovers) to less than $6. This makes me incredibly happy.
I crowdsourced my dinner options, and the Fabio family voted (not unanimously, I might add, I was on pins and needles) for sloppy joes. I knew whatever I was eating (burgers or joes) that I wanted to make it with beer. I browsed a few recipes, got a general idea of what to throw together, and then made something up by myself. Was it mind-blowing? No. Did it satisfy my craving? Yes. It actually ended up tasting almost exactly as I wanted it to - just a little spice, some tang, a hint of sweetness. And beefy. Next go-around, I’m going to pump up the red wine vinegar, because I like the tangy flavor. Suggestions are always welcomed.
Sloppy Drunk Joes
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 medium or 2 small onions, diced fine
1 lb ground beef (I prefer 80% lean)
3-4 garlic cloves, minced fine
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 cup beer (I used New Belgium Mighty Arrow Pale Ale - stick with something that has body - this beer is particularly malty. Just no Corona.)
2 generous Tablespoons Tabasco sauce (I used the green jalapeno, use what you like/have on hand)
2 - 4 Tablespoons red wine vinegar (when I make this recipe again, I’ll use more, but I started out with 2 Tb - if you are a vinegar freak like me, add more, if not, 2 will do)
1 teaspoon cumin
2 Tablespoons flour
Hamburger buns of your liking
Cheddar cheese (I used Bravo Farms chipotle cheddar and found it a little too strong)
Let’s cook this shit
Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, deep frying pan. When the oil is shimmery, add the onions, salt, and pepper and cook for about a minute until the onions are softened. Add the beef and garlic, making sure to bust the meat up so there are no large chunks. Also make sure you take off the paper that is usually stuck to the back of the beef. Don’t be an idiot like me. Cook the meat and the alliaceae until the beef is uniformly brown, and there is no pink showing, about 5-7 minutes more.
And the rest
Add all of the other ingredients. Stir thoroughly. Simmer for 15-20 minutes or however long it takes you to put away all of your ingredients, do some tidying up, slice and toast buns, and cut up some cheese, stirring every couple of minutes so it doesn’t stick to the pan. The mixture will have reduced and thickened to a nice sauce. Layer the cheese on the toasted bun, slop some joe on top, crown it with the other half of the bun. Put it in your belly.
Enjoy.
Yesterday I experienced some disappointment in the kitchen. Not to be deterred, I wanted to try again. I’ve attempted to make biscuits several times over the years; one batch turned out like gross little rocks, another like floury rocks, and the last like one giant rock. Okay, it wasn’t a rock. It didn’t taste that bad. The recipe had potential. The problem was the batter - way, way, way too thin. The recipe called for scooping 12 1/4 cups of the batter onto a floured sheet pan and rolling each ball around, then placing it in a greased cake pan. All well and good, but imagine trying to roll jelly into a coherent ball. Not going to happen. It was all ooze and a floury mess. I ended up just dumping all of the batter into the cake pan, which caused little pockets of flour to form. After baking, the biscuits were (unsurprisingly) far too floury. And lacked oomph. They tasted flat. Mary and I agreed - they needed more butter. And in my opinion, perhaps a bit more salt. I talked to my mother as it was baking, lamenting our kitchen calamities, and she said that she’s never been able to make good biscuits either. I refuse to believe that my inability to make delicious biscuits is genetic.
So today, I present my improved version. This one is for you, mom!
Even if you don’t have a mixer/food processor, you can make these. Even if you don’t have a pastry cutter, you can use two butter knives to crisscross in the flour/butter mixture. It takes time, don’t expect instant gratification. I like to pretend I’m in Little House on the Prairie when I make biscuits.
Buttery Buttermilk Biscuits
Dough
2 cups all-purpose flour (10oz)
1 Tablespoon double-acting baking powder
1 Tablespoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
6 Tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, chopped up in 1/4” pieces
1 cup cold buttermilk*
Forming and finishing the biscuits
1/4-1/2 cup flour
2 Tablespoons melted butter
To make
1. Heat your oven to 500 degrees. Yes, 500 degrees. I was surprized Mary’s went up that high. Position the oven rack in the middle. Grease a 9” cake pan with a lot of butter (don’t forget the sides). Similarly grease a 1/4 cup measuring cup. Sprinkle flour over a large baking sheet.
2. Mix dry ingredients in a bowl with a whisk
3. Sprinkle chopped up butter over dry ingredients, go at it with a pastry cutter, or cut into the mixture with two knives crisscrossing each other. You’re trying to get the butter into very, very small pieces covered in flour. This process can take up to five minutes. Would it be faster and easier with a food processor? Most certainly. When the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal, or you are fucking sick and tired of hacking away, pour the buttermilk in the bowl. Mix with a spatula until the buttermilk is just incorporated into the dry ingredients - the batter will be sticky and lumpy.
4. Scoop leveled amounts of batter onto the prepared baking sheet with the 1/4 cup scoop. You’ll have to use your fingers to get the batter out of the measuring cup. You should get 11-12 biscuits. Sprinkle a bit more flour over the top of the biscuit lumps, and toss each lump back and forth in your hands until it’s evenly coated, and all the excess flour is shaken off. Place in the buttered cake pan. Repeat with the rest of the biscuits. Pour the melted butter over the biscuits. Mmmm melted butter….
5. Place cake pan in the oven for 5 minutes, then turn the oven down to 450 degrees for another 15-20 minutes, or until the tops of the biscuits are deeply browned. Let cool in the cake pan for a couple of minutes, then turn them out onto a cooling rack. Let cool, then devour.
*I don’t usually keep actual buttermilk on hand. In a pinch, I make it like this, but recently I had my mom send me a container of this, which I’ve had a hard time finding on the west coast (p.s. mom i’m running low, you can send me some more in my next care package! thanks!). What was I saying? Oh yeah, if you use the powdered buttermilk, add the powder (in this case, you’ll use 4 Tablespoons) to the dry ingredients first, then add 1 cup of water after you’ve mixed in the butter.
Yes - they actually taste a million times better than the last batch! Rich, buttery flavor, crumbly, a bit salty, impressively close to KFC biscuits, which in my opinion, are the gold standard. I cannot wait to make cheddar-jalapeno and cinnamon sugar versions.